Sunday, September 30, 2012

FO: New Look 6104

Many of the patterns that people chose for OWOP (One Week One Pattern) this past March were very popular patterns by Indie sewing pattern designers. I know there's a tendency for Indie knitwear designers to be very popular, too. Sometimes, a cheap(er) sewing pattern designed from the Big Four companies (Vogue, Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity) can be very chic, though. I know I get caught up in the hype of sewing only hard-working small company patterns, but I have to remind myself that I'm a student, and no-I really shouldn't live off of $50 of groceries for the month just to scrimp for my crafting indulgences.

When Andrea of Four Square Walls chose to use New Look 6104 as her OWOP in March, I fell in love with the simplicity and versatility of the design. New Look is sold by Simplicity, and I love all of their contemporary, easy-to-wear pieces. I found some 4th of July-themed fabric at 40% off at JoAnn's, and I fell in love with the polka-dots. (What can I say? I'm a dotty girl.) I knew I wanted my very own New Look 6104.

The pattern called for 1 3/4 yd at 45" of fabric, but I was able to squeak by (very, very close!) with only 1.5 yards. I was happy with my creative pattern-positioning abilities. I cut a size 14 for the body, but a size 10 for the shoulder height and neck hole  Many people complained about back gaping in this pattern. I found that by cutting a much smaller shoulder/neck, I was able to eliminate much of the gaping. There's still a little bit there.

A lot of people also said that the shirt fit over their head without having functioning buttons. I found that to be true with me, too. There's quite a bit of room in the waist/hip area, so it's super easy to slip over my head. After I discovered this, I sewed the button plackets together and then sewed buttons on top as a decorative touch. I got the cutest heart-shaped buttons at JoAnn's, and I just realized I never got Sam to take pictures of the buttons. Hopefully you can see them.

There's still some horizontal creases going on in the back, so I may have to take out some fabric there next time I sew this up. (I recently discovered that I'm a swayback!) I love the way this fits through the bust and hips, but I kind of wish there was a little less fabric in the waist. I'm still undecided about this, though. I think I may need to start cutting at smaller sizes and do an FBA, and grade to larger sizes for my hips. Then again, I'm not sure if I'd actually change anything when (there will be a when) I make another version of this pattern.

Moral? It's harder to make fit adjustments in sewing than in knitting! Measure twice, cut once---because you kind of can't really cut again.

I really wanted to take pictures outside of the Loeb fountain at Purdue, but the sun was way too high to get good pictures of the top without me making squinty faces at Sam. Anyway, I got 2 unsolicitations in the 3 hours I wore this top on 9/11. Totally made my day!

Pattern: New Look 6104 (pattern review), View A, $3.99
Fabric1.5 yards of 100% cotton from JoAnn's (@ $4.19/yd), $6.29
Notions: 2 packets of 3/8" heart buttons, $1.40 ea.
Time to complete: 2 hours of cutting + 9 hours of sewing = 11 hours. Phew! I am getting even faster now
Made for: Me!
Size: Cut a Size 14, but graded to a size 10 for the shoulder height and neck hole separation
-Shortened bottom half of back darts by about 1 inch. 
-Shortened at length adjustment mark by about 2 inches.
-Button placket is non-functional as the shirt fit over my head without opening it, as many other pattern reviewers have noted. If I were to do this again, I would omit the interfacing for the center placket, too, and maybe not bother making 2 sides. Maybe.
-If I were to sew this again, I'd adjust for the swayback I have.
Cost: (6.29+3.99+2.80)*1.07 + $3 sewing upkeep (machine repairs, needles, thread, etc.) = $17.00
Would you make this again? Yes!! I have plans to make essentially View A minus the ruffles in a red with white polka dotted fabric (yes, kind of Minnie Mouse like. I decided against a Peter Pan collared Alma blouse with this fabric because that's too referential for every day wear). I also plan on making a View C with a embroidered olive green & brown dotted fabric. Man, I love polka dots.


  1. This blouse is adorable! I really love your functional, everyday approach to sewing. I have been critically reassessing my own strategies for fall/winter sewing and think I need to follow suit and focus on more practical pieces.

    1. Aw, thanks! I actually have a few frosting pieces that I want to whip up, so I'm not all function. Though, these functional pieces do get worn a lot.

  2. Super cute! I'm new to sewing so I've found that I'm falling in love with "older" patterns but so what! If I like it that's all that matters, right? :)

    Brilliant to cut the smaller neckline. It turned out perfectly.

  3. I love your work, keep giving up more. Happy Sewing!!!!