Tuesday, April 23, 2013

FO: Minoru Jacket

I made my very own Minoru! I have been planning on making one of these for quite some time now. In fact, I used to just browse sewing blogs, but when Tasia first introduced the pattern on her blog, I decided I wanted to sew to one day make one of these for myself. I can't believe I'm decently good enough to sew one now!

Please excuse all of the squinty eyed pictures. It was about 3pm when my photographer was willing to take pictures. More importantly, I made welt pockets!!!!!! Yayyyy!

Look at those welts! I'm really brave I guess because I didn't even try making a welt on some practice fabric. 

I had pinned the welt pockets that Mika and Sophie had made as I watched all the bloggers post their Minoru's over time. I read through the Colette tutorial that Mika had suggested, but once I started, I didn't quite get how it all fit together. Looks like I'm not the only one who recently discovered the beauty of welt pockets on a Minoru. For the record, I actually finished this jacket ages ago and only now am I posting pictures--just so y'all don't think I copy everything Andrea makes. 

Then, I just googled "welt pockets" and found that this video that was excellent at really showing how to make welt pockets.

My favorite part of this whole thing is the brightly patterned ikat lining! I used some Crepe du Chine from fabric.com that I bought a while back. It gives this jacket just the touch of fun I wanted. Also looks like I'm not the only one who discovered the amazingness of an ikat lining.

I made several mods, including shortening the back to suit me.

-1"x6" single welt pocket; slanted @ 60 deg angle; 3" deep in the smallest depth. I'll make a slightly skinnier welt pocket, with the top top-stitched to prevent pocket sagging for the next iteration. I'll maybe try out the double-welt look.
-did about 0.5" reduction for the sway back; may do another 0.5" reduction for a future one
-Cut size 8 for the shoulders, size 10 for the bust area, size 8 for the waist, and size 6 for the hips. I'm not a pear shape--I'm an hourglass.
-I reduced the body by about an inch (I think) above the waistband and by about an inch below the waistband.
-added label
-sewed waist band 0.25" above where I marked it after shortening above the waistband
-I shortened the sleeves by about an inch. I cut the size 8 to fit the armsyce, but extended to a size 10 for right at the bust area. Then I tapered the sleeves to a size 6. I would shorten sleeves another 0.5"if I were to make this again
-need to interface collar the next time I make this

Of course, I have some oopsies. Here, you might be able to see I had issues with topstitching. For some reason, some of the facings were not exactly the same size as the other side, so I had puckers in my sewing. The light is very bright, but you may be able to spot it on the inside of the zip. 

Another oopsie is that one pocket is about 1" lower than the other, which I thought was the case when I measured it, but it looked funky upon eyeballing. After I was done, I realized measurements never lie (as long as they were correctly made.) Still-no one I know can actually see it even when I point it out until they look super closely.

And I was a doofus and sewed the lining inside out to the collar. By the time I realized it, I was very committed because...

Can you see it?

I had already sewn in the label! It makes me super happy that the color matches the jacket.

Please excuse the ashy fingers. The most fiddly part of the entire jacket was the cuff.

I did all of the basting by hand, and very carefully machine stitched the cuff to the sleeve. I just did a not-so-blind stitch to attach the lining to the cuff. It all worked beautifully. 

Look at that ginormous collar! I don't mind it so much, so I may not reduce it for the next version. There will be a next version. Don't worry. I may add an interlining, though, to make it better for slightly colder weather. The jacket is perfect for 50-70 deg F in its current iteration. I'd like to make one that fairs better in the 30-50 deg F range.

People have commented how much they love the gathering at the collar. I agree.

The whole shape is very flattering!

Weather permitting, I haven't stopped wearing this jacket since I've finished it. It fits really well; it looks great opened and closed; and it's a great marker of the beginning of spring! 

Pattern: $22.98/2 = $11.49
Main Fabric: $9.36 for 2 7/8 yds; used only 1 3/8 yds of 59" wide Pale Aqua Green Twill, 100% cotton; This fabric has been collecting a ton of dust/staticky things. Does anyone have any suggestions for treating the fabric to prevent this? My color choice probably didn't help.
Lining Fabric: 3 yds of Ikat Crepe de Chine Purple/Blue (used 1 2/3 yds of 44" width) from Fabric.com @ $4.98/yd = $14.94
Heavyweight Brass Separating Metal Zipper Navy zipper: $4.60 (from DenverFabrics.com)
Elastic: $2.41 (inc. tax & 50% off coupon)
Sewing Maintenance: $5
Total: $47.80


  1. This really is the best in between season jacket.

  2. sorry to post twice, great job on the zipper!!!!

  3. This is a very cute coat! Love the welt pockets. You did such a great job. Shh, don't tell anyone, but I never make practice welts either. :)

    1. Haha, I'm glad I'm not the only one. Thanks!